March 2002, China Daily
The district of Zhongdian was renamed Shangri La after
the utopia described in James Hilton's novel The Lost Horizon.
Fall 2002
The sunlight is warm today, the air less humid. It reminded
me of far away Yunnan and of our expedition. Fall is in the air,
every night it gets a tad cooler and drier. During the bright
days we rake leaves together, enjoying their brilliant colors,
piling them together then lighting them to add more carbon to
the atmosphere. She tells me the Naxi do not bury lovers or people
who have died violent deaths they burn them. What does
she in the flames and smoke? She keeps her own council.
After so many months, I finally have the courage to look at
my journal while she steps out to do the grocery shopping.
She likes doing that a tenuous connection to people. They
don't ask questions here.
The whole world watched the live broadcasts and followed us
on the internet. Our expedition was seen at every angle and in
every aspect - almost. The world has the impression it was a
movie.
But it wasn't; it was a combination of heaven and hell.
"Why are you going through those old things Gary? I thought
we wouldn't talk climbing anymore?"
"Babe, You know I promised them a novel or at least an
article." My editors had published the other book, a best
seller now because of what I had witnessed. "They have been
calling me almost every day." A lie. They are not that interested;
life is full of little lies, to protect us from the big truths.
She reminds me, "Lilly no longer exists."
Time is supposed to heal bones and minds. Maybe our minds
just forget the worst and hang on to the best. I don't think
she will mind - she has recovered as much as anyone can. My heart
still aches. I hope his book will bring closure to a time when
we lived on the knife's edge of death and chose life.
The mountain didn't kill us, but it tried - it tried hard.
Michel Greenblum told me I could go ahead, Zach could not
stop us, and Michel needed the money. Confucious said the gold
in your heart is worth more than the gold in your purse and I
think he was right.
Author's Prologue
My name is Gary Worth, and this is the story of a mountain
climbing expedition in China.
This is the chronicle of an assault on the Meili Snow Mountain's
Prince Snow Mountain of Kagebo -- Kagebo feng or Moirigkawagarbo
-- called the "most beautiful mountain in the world",
"God of the Snow Mountains", or - as we named it -
the last mountain.
Kagebo is the tallest mountain in the Chinese province of
Yunnan, towering 6,470 meters (21,221 or 22,108-ft feet) above
sea level. On the southern side of the main peak, a waterfall
- known as "a deluge of rain and God-mandated cascade"
among the local Zang people - tumbles down from a breath-taking
height of 1,000 meters (3280 feet). Meili Snow Mountain is the
highest holy Tibetan Mountain in the world, shrouded in mist,
cloud and mystery. It had never been conquered.
The Chinese and Tibetans also call it Kala Karpo, Kagbo, or
sometimes Kawebo. They also call it the killer - for good reason.
For one hundred years men and women have tried to climb it, many
have perished.
"Since 1902, mountaineers from China, Great Britain,
the US, and Japan all have failed to conquer the peak. In 1991,
a Sino-Japan joint climbing team came very close to the main
peak-Kawagebo when it began to snow heavily. The team was forced
to abandon the climbing plan, and they died on the way of returning
to No.3 Base of 5,100 meters above sea level: 6 Chinese and 11
Japanese. Not until July 1998 were the frozen corpses of the
team finally found. "
I do not write these things lightly because every word is
powerful. Like a stone, tossed into a pond it can cause ripples
that can bring down the world on your head if you are not careful.
There are questions that I need to answer. Some of the answers
beg for questions. Maybe this book will reveal the truth or make
it more obscure. Read on and see.
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