The trip to the mountain was breathtaking. No, that word has
been over done. Nothing I haad known could have prepared me for
the views, the beauty of the place. We were chatting away like
children, it was like going on a picnic with you were your best
friends. Maybe they will make a movie about us one day.
"You are happy Mr. Worth?"
"More than at anytime in my life."
"Maybe you have gained wisdom. Taoism says you should emulate
water and follow the path of least residance. Like the stream
that flows through Lijiang."
"She is right mate, the tao masters say 'become one with
the rock,' or become like a rock."He added the last with
a wicked grin. Jason was not jealous, he was happy for us. Siegfried?
He kept his own council. The others were whooping it up in the
other jeep, admiring the scenery. Picking mountains to climb.
We detoured to Leaping Tiger gorge, deeper than the Grand Canyon,
they say, and we were in awe. Chip wanted to white raft it or
at least do a kayak. He seemed to be the hot head in the bunch,
the risk taker.
Deqen Town
Zacheria had arranged for the television crews to greet us
at Teqen, so that we felt like GI's arriving in a liberated European
city. The ministery of tourism had done its bit. Every one and
their uncle was out to see us arrive. In a way I felt a part
of it and an interloper. There was no more talk of money, I was
part of the crew, what role I would play was yet to be defined.
They needed a pair of hands to off load equipment, I was there,
if they needed coffee perked, I was there. After a while I felt
the role of gofer fit me. It allowed me to meet people and to
over hear conversations.
I started a diary, the one I am using now to write this story.
As well, I interviewed people using my micro recorder as a back
up. No one noticed it, as I later found out, it was to save us
all.
Yes, you all saw the images, the ones edited for the special
and even some of the live feeds. But I was behind the camera,
I saw what actually transpired.
Most of the TV crews and petrolium guys hankered down in the
few hotels offering western conforts ie flush toilettes, in the
little town of Diqing or Deqen, the climbers were based ten kilometers
away at the base of the mountain.
All mountains have a window of opportunity, our mountain was
no exception, except it enjoyed a bad reputation for both climbing
and for weather. Mr. Fu was just one of many resources they used
to predict the weather. Unfortunately, as the climbers on mount
Everest found out, a slight shift of the jet stream and the wind
can go from a balmy 20 K an hour to 200 Klicks an hour a flash.
For climbers attached to a shear rock cliff, they are sitting
ducks, and could be brushed off like flies. Climbing entailed
its own problems as I was to find out.
Acclimitization to the altitude for the climbers was the first
concern. Air bubbles form in the blood, like the bends that divers
feel, and an embolism can form in the blood that can be fatale
at high altititude. Base camps had to be set up, supplies taken
up and down to those camps. Routes had to be mapped out. Using
some sophisticted side looking radar equipment, our team was
able to scout some good routes and then display them on a computer
screen. Some of the Texas millionaires money also went into flow
simulation, enabling the team to see how the air came over the
mountain and mixed with the lower air. We are talking about a
mountain that rises in a tropical zone and goes all the way up
to near space conditions, with snow.
All this equipment had been set up near the town of Deqen.
That left the climbers isolated and left alone.
In a way those problems were the simplest. Human nature provided
us with the worst nuts too crack. 'Zacheria had dissapeared since
the banquet, off to leverage more deals and whatever, he had
many pots boiling at one time.
Lilly was gone a lot, hanging out with the climbers who were
training, running and even doing small climbs. Chip was the fall
man, he loved to go up a rope, and then free fall. He tested
the new climbing ropes. Manfried was the ice man, he took anyone
who wanted to the glaciers and gave them tips. With his spiked
footwear, he was wicked looking. Marie continued to boulder.
They all did exercises to strengthen their hands, hanging on
to ledges for hours, a contest of wills, to see who would be
the first to fall. Lilly even tried this and sometimes won.
The big worry was the Chinese participation. "No Chinese,
no climb" Michel kept repeating, anytime he came to the
camp. Mostly he stayed enconced in the western hotels. He was
the company man, Zach's eyes and ears.
One day some chinese army helicopters arrived with the same
crew who had climbed with us two weeks ago in Stone Forest. They
set up their own camp, and stared at the westerners, even coming
over to bum cigarettes. Lilly chastized them and they stayed
away. Every day some news crew would come by or a satelitte link
up was arranged to keep the interest high. Like watching any
physical sport, it got old fast, atheletes doing nothing is not
exciting.
Lilly and I were into a strange place as well, as soon as
the army showed up. She stopped sleeping with me, claiming she
was stressed. One day she came by and grabbed me saying she had
the afternoon off, and she wanted to show me Songzanlin Monastary.
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